Pear Cut

In short

The pear cut (also called teardrop cut or pendeloque cut) is a modified brilliant cut with a hybrid outline: one end is rounded like a round brilliant and the other tapers to a single cusp point, producing a teardrop or pear silhouette. Standard facet count is 56 to 58 in the brilliant arrangement adapted to the asymmetric pear outline. Length-to-width ratios of 1.45:1 to 1.75:1 are considered standard; ratios below 1.45 appear round and stubby; above 1.75 appear very elongated. Like the marquise, the pear cut produces larger apparent face-up surface area per carat than the round brilliant and creates an elongating visual effect on the finger. The pear cut also shares the bow-tie effect vulnerability of elongated shapes and requires a protective V-prong at the single pointed cusp.

Quick facts

Item type: Cut

Geometry and Proportions

The pear's asymmetric outline — rounded on one end, pointed on the other — requires the cutter to adapt brilliant facets to a shape without radial symmetry. The rounded end is analogous to half of a round brilliant; the pointed end is analogous to one cusp of a marquise. The center of the table facet is offset toward the rounded end to ensure the pavilion facets achieve similar depth and reflection angles throughout. The crown facets include a table, bezel facets, star facets, and upper girdle facets; the pavilion has main facets, lower girdle facets, and usually a small culet. The single cusp must be well-centered on the long axis (a pear cut with a noticeably off-center cusp looks irregular). Symmetry of the shoulders (the curved sides of the rounded end, where they meet the narrowing waist of the pear) is also evaluated in quality assessment — uneven shoulders make the stone look lopsided.

Historical Use and Naming

The pear cut's history is generally traced to Lodewyk (Louis) van Berquem of Bruges (c. 1430–1490), credited as a pioneer of modern diamond faceting using the diamond polishing wheel. While van Berquem's specific role in the development is debated by historians, pear-shaped diamonds appear in European jewellery by the 15th–16th centuries. The 'pendeloque' name (from French 'pendant') reflects early use for pendant jewellery where the point hangs downward — a natural and still common orientation in pear-cut earrings and pendants. The Tiffany Yellow Diamond (128.54 carats, Tiffany & Co.) is a notable pear-shaped yellow diamond; the 69.42-carat Taylor-Burton diamond (purchased by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor in 1969, then one of the largest diamonds sold at auction) was also pear-shaped. Pear-cut diamonds experienced strong market growth in the late 2010s–2020s as part of the elongated fancy shapes trend.

Orientation in Jewellery Settings

The orientation of a pear cut in a ring is a meaningful stylistic choice with conventional associations. Traditional orientation places the point toward the fingernail (upward/outward), elongating the finger visually — this is the classic orientation for a pear solitaire. 'East-west' orientation rotates the pear 90 degrees so the long axis runs across the finger, a modern/fashion-forward choice that became popular in the 2015–2025 period. Point-downward (toward the wrist) is less common for solitaires but appears in cluster and vintage settings. In pendant and earring use, the rounded end is typically at the top (held by the setting) and the point hangs down, reflecting the original pendeloque usage. For earrings, matching pears are typically set with points hanging downward to create a teardrop effect.

Sources & further reading (2)

gemological-institute — accessed 2026-05-08
encyclopedia — accessed 2026-05-08

Frequently asked questions

Does a pear cut have a bow-tie like a marquise?

Yes. Pear cuts are susceptible to the bow-tie effect — a dark shadow visible face-up across the middle of the stone — for the same geometric reason as the marquise: the pavilion facets in the central, narrower region cannot achieve total internal reflection as efficiently as the broader areas near the round end and point. In a pear, the bow-tie typically appears in the center of the stone's length, shaped like a bow tie across the narrow waist. Severity varies by proportion — depth percentage, pavilion angle, and length-to-width ratio all affect bow-tie intensity. Slightly deeper cutting or adjusted pavilion angles can reduce bow-tie; some buyers prefer a very slight bow-tie as it adds dynamic character, but a prominent bow-tie reduces the stone's appeal. Assessing bow-tie requires in-person viewing since it depends on lighting angle.

Which end of a pear cut should face up in a ring?

The traditional convention is point upward (toward the fingernail, away from the hand), which elongates the finger and creates the classic teardrop effect that shows the stone's silhouette most dramatically. This orientation has been standard for pear solitaire engagement rings for decades. However, east-west orientation (point to the side) became a popular modern trend in the 2010s–2020s, with designers and buyers choosing the horizontal orientation for a distinctive, nontraditional look. Point-downward orientation is less common for rings but appears in vintage cluster pieces. There is no gemological preference — the choice is aesthetic and personal. The protective V-prong should always be at the point regardless of orientation.

Is the pear cut well-suited for coloured gemstones?

Yes, the pear cut is widely used for coloured gemstones — sapphire, ruby, emerald, tourmaline, citrine, and others. For coloured gems, the elongated outline can help concentrate or distribute colour effectively depending on the stone's depth and colour saturation. Lighter-coloured gems (pale citrine, lighter-coloured aquamarine) benefit from the pear's depth in the rounded end, which adds colour saturation. Very deeply coloured gems may benefit from a slightly shallower pear to lighten the apparent colour. Famous coloured pear-cut gems include the Centenary Diamond (273.85 carats, De Beers), which is a modified pear shape with 247 facets — although most gem pears follow the standard brilliant adaptation.